The history of the foulard – a journey through time

The long journey to Europe

The foulard, as a lasting garment in our wardrobe, has a history that reflects the evolution of our society in a unique way. Although the cut and colors vary greatly depending on the culture, the scarf illustrates how general social values and the economy have changed.

Archaeological findings of looms in China show that scarves were already being produced as early as 4,000 BC. China later became the leading producer of silk during the reign of Emperor Huáng Dì. According to a legend from that time, Leizu, also known as Xi Lingshi, was drinking tea under a mulberry tree when a cocoon fell into her cup. The emperor’s wife immediately began winding the thread from the cocoon around her finger and realized that it could be used for weaving fabric. A new industry was born, boosting the economy.

For several thousand years, the secret of silk production was strictly guarded. No one outside of China was able to produce large square foulards from this elegant fabric. Neither silkworm eggs nor mulberry seeds were allowed to be exported. Anyone who attempted to smuggle any of these components was punished with death. Silk products were transported to distant customers via caravan routes such as the Silk Road. Wealthy people in Rome also desired this fabric and wanted to possess it at any cost. During the reign of Emperor Augustus, this trade reached its peak and soon became widely available.

Silkworm breeding – and thus silk production – also reached Europe through the plan of the Roman Emperor Justinian I. In the 6th century, he sent two Christian monks to China to learn the production of silk. They were also tasked with stealing silkworm eggs and mulberry seeds. Hidden in their walking sticks, they successfully smuggled them back to Byzantium.

Over time, the Arabs also gained knowledge of this production, and the expertise spread across Europe. It reached Italy in the 10th century – and Italy remains a producer of fine scarves to this day. In the 15th century, foulards were increasingly produced in France, significantly influencing fashion. Even along the Rhine in the 19th century, mulberry trees were planted (though with limited success), and silk was used to produce scarves.

The larger foulard of that time reached different social classes in Europe. However, depending on occupation and financial status, the scarf was used for different purposes.

The evolution of functionality

Statues from Mesopotamia suggest that around 3300 BC, simple large scarves were worn across the back. The primary function of the scarf was to protect the body from the cold in winter and from sunlight in summer.

Scarves were also used in ancient Egypt. In the mid-14th century, Queen Nofrete wore a fine foulard under her cone-shaped headdress. It is believed this made wearing the crown more comfortable and helped absorb sweat.

Roman soldiers tied scarves around their necks. The focale (a scarf made of wool or linen) was worn under armor to protect the skin from chafing. Women preferred the palla, which was draped around the body and head and fastened with a brooch, serving a function similar to a cloak.

In Hellenistic fashion, sakkos were also very popular, with long scarves draped over the shoulders shaping women’s outfits.

In the Middle Ages, wealthy women wore long, fine scarves. Queen Eleanor of Aquitaine is said to have popularized this fashion.

In the 14th century, aristocratic women in France wore a hennin, now known as a princess hat, decorated with a fine cloth flowing from its tip.

In the 17th century, scarves were increasingly used by soldiers.

In the 18th century, Emperor Napoleon brought soft cashmere scarves from the region of Kashmir in India to Empress Joséphine, who became an avid collector. Empress Marie-Louise also admired these luxurious scarves. Scarves became increasingly popular in France, and demand in Paris grew rapidly.

The Fi Chu scarf, a large square scarf, was especially popular in the 18th and 19th centuries. Typically made of linen or lace, it was folded into a triangle, worn over the shoulders, and tied at the front to cover the neckline.

In late 19th and early 20th century women’s fashion, scarves became longer as women sought to create a slimmer silhouette.

Although luxurious styles declined after the Industrial Revolution, men continued to wear elegant neckwear and ties.

During wartime, scarves were still worn, but less luxurious materials were used, reflecting societal hardship. The function shifted toward practicality. Women used foulards to tie back their hair while working in fields and factories.

In post-war culture, dull colors were replaced by bright ones, and scarves became an essential fashion accessory.

The function of the foulard has evolved significantly. Originally used for warmth and protection like a type of cloak, it later served soldiers as protection from dust and debris.

In Europe, foulards became smaller with the rise of proper coats, reaching their modern size. Depending on social class and political context, their use varied. For workers, scarves remained protective, while the wealthy used them to signal status. Overall, the scarf evolved from a practical item into a fashion accessory. Today, scarves are accessible to everyone, although fine silk or cashmere scarves still symbolize luxury and style.

Pioneers and innovative techniques

The oldest textile production technique is weaving, one of humanity’s earliest crafts. Evidence suggests weaving has existed for over 32,000 years. Early trade in textiles and carpets brought wealth to many civilizations. In ancient China, weaving was revolutionized by sericulture, enabling the production of luxurious fabrics for export. As demand in Europe grew beyond what Italy and France could supply, production became industrialized. The luxury brand Hermès introduced its first silk scarf in 1937, promising superior quality and exclusive design – shaping the modern foulard.

Unforgettable icons

 

Author: Melis Karaali

Sources

• https://www.waremakers.com/ch/warepedia/scarves
• https://www.chinarundreisen.com/china-info/die-chinesische-seide.htm
• https://www.shiatsu-austria.at/index.php/daoismus/chinas-geheimnis-der-seidenherstellung
• https://de.wikipedia.org/wiki/Weben
• Image Leizu: https://www.pinterest.ch/pin/87749892714846427/
• Image Queen Nofrete: https://www.tagesspiegel.de/wissen/aegypten-die-heikle-mitgift-der-nofretete/1584414.html
• Image Soldier: https://keywordsuggest.org/gallery/1453301.html
• Image Sakkos: https://www.messala.de/griechische-mode.htm
• Image Eleanor of Aquitaine: https://www.emma.de/artikel/emma-serie-herrscherinnen-eleonore-von-aquitanien-264166
• Image Hennin: https://altevolkstrachten.de/tag/hennin/
• Image Fi Chu scarf: https://www.pinterest.ch/pin/558305685047148852/
• Image Worker: https://www.pinterest.ch/pin/338966309436263706/
• Image Audrey Hepburn: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/337840409528535043/
• Image Grace Kelly: https://d.repubblica.it/argomenti/2011/11/12/foto/grace_kelly_style-600247/1/?refresh_ce
• Image Jacqueline Kennedy: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/134967320067936285/
• Image Brigitte Bardot: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/252060910369319308/